Imagine that; the overcrowded streets of the Financial district, the wharves and harbours of the Lower East Side, the Meatpacking district, the East and West Villages full of bankrupt boutiques and french bistros at half-price, the tony Upper East and West sides doused in privilege, neurosis and Jewishness, all hustling, jostling, competing to be heard; this is New York, no, this is New York, no this is the real New York. And yet all of them put together is not as big nor as real as Harlem.
Well, this is the only part of New York I can say that I genuinely like; that feels real and not artificial; not some tourist's Sex and the City dream of what New York should be, not one giant jumble of the best restaurants, museums, clothing boutiques, coffeeshops, taxicabs, stilettos and cowl necks, not some overprocessed white existential nightmare of craving and alienation.
There is a gentle community here, still living the lingering aftereffects of poverty, history, race but also an up and coming black middle class that is proud to call Harlem its home, an everchanging tide of doormen, policewomen, laundryworkers, street cleaners that wash in from the Bronx in the mornings and leave late at night, a chain of jerk restaurants, and steak restaurants, and fried chicken joints and alcohol saloons, where the doors to doorman buildings are locked at nights and the candy is stashed away in stores behind bulletproof glass, and where the stench of alcohol always lingers, and where one tries not to make eye contact much when walking down the street. There is the constant Black-Latino tension too, but an uneasy peace too, a stand against the Man, a genuine pride in being the 'other' and from having spent years in the ghetto. Here, old street cleaners yell after young men "pull up your pants, chile", as if they were their own, and mothers fuss over young women not their own, and almost everybody is ready to spend hours discussing Obama, NYPD and where to go to get your hair done, and who is banging who.
And sometimes, when the sun is late to set, and Central Park at the foot of Harlem begins to glow, out come the deck chairs and the barbecue grills, and the children play basketball late into the night, and the mothers and young men huddle around stone tables, a continuous sea of voices rising, punctuated by stops and starts and exclamations, guffawing, and the rap music and the hip hop continues late into the night, and despite the rising unemployment, and the rising drug and alcohol abuse, and the constant stress of never having enough, the moment is enough, until the next day when you do it all again.
Wherever one may go in Manhattan, stale, rich, declining; Harlem remains unique, defiant and strangely authentic, in this New York at the end of its Gatsby years.