in india

you know you're in India when the moment you land, someone rushes from the back of the plane to the front, already having perfected his strategy of being a first-mover at Customs and secretly disobeying orders to unload luggage from the cabin head. You know you're in India when standing in customs, some old guy trying valiantly to be hip with newly-acquired American accent and a passel of kids and a large fanny pack busts out ice gum and offers it to everyone around him saying: want some ice breakers? You know you're in India when some auntie/long-lost third cousin's great-cousin's grand-aunt says to you warningly about her friend/long lost third-cousin's daughter that she was a very bright girl, went to Stanford pre-med, but then switched majors and now is doing Teach for America and shakes her head and says :"and her parents are very disappointed". You know you're in India when you're sitting in an auto, rushing headlong into oncoming traffic, heart pounding wildly, hair flying out of the 2 by 2 hair cabin, and the auto driver having completed a u-turn worthy of Hamilton spinning on one wheel, then spots a lad pedalling on a bicycle standing up, ahead of him, and the lad's butt swerving with every motion, and in madrasi tamil, the autodriver bawls him out for his butt going this way and that way and tells him to sit down, and the youth, undaunted, tries to make a quickwitted retort, but instead crashes into an oncoming van and falls off his bicycle to much merriment of auto driver and passengers. You know you're in India when you start speaking tamil/hindi/marwadi/hyderabadi urdu to a telephone seller, who upon seeing your crisp blue foreign passport, starts yakking back at you in broken English, deaf to whatever else. You know you're in India when the gelato from a five star cafe is a colonic irrigation substitute, and fresh curd from the rural roadside makes you believe in God again. You know you're in India when ... you wake up, and the air is wet with the smell of monsoon rains, and the leaves greener than anywhere else, and the stench from the roadside households mixes with the diesel of the maruti cars and melds with the jasmine and the mangoes and the sandalwood from a nearby shrine and you know you're home, some way, again.